Birria: A Taste of Guadalajara

When I read “A Definitive Dish: Celebrating Goat in Jalisco” by Lesley Tellez, I knew I had to give birria a try during my visit to Guadalajara. Tellez writes, “Birria contains humble ingredients, but in inspires pride in Jalisco. It’s intricately tied to people’s lives and livelihoods.”

And it’s true. Tapatíos are very proud of their birria, which is a brothy meat stew often served for special occasions. The stew is usually cooked with lamb or goat, which is slow cooked and unbelievably tender, easily falling off the bone. Served with limes, onions and corn tortillas, birria is a must-have if you visit the state of Jalisco.

On our first night in Guadalajara, we walked to la Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas for dinner with our hearts set on trying the birria. Tucked into a small neighborhood south of el Centro Historico, la Birrieria stands among brightly colored buildings that encircle a small plaza with a fountain. We decided to sit outside on the patio, as the gurgling of the fountain paired with the perfect evening temperature made for a very relaxing atmosphere. This short paragraph from la Birrieria’s website provides an immaculate description of how our dinner experience was set up:

Upon arriving to this restaurant, famous for its delicious birria of goat and barbecued lamb that is slow cooked in agave leaves, you are welcomed by the Family, who kindly accompany you to your table. There, while you wait on Dona Lupita to prepare your food, you’ll won’t be able to resist trying the salsa and onions with tortilla chips. And if you’re in luck, you’ll also be able to enjoy the music from the musicians in the plaza.

Before we knew it, the birria de chivo had arrived at our table.

Of course, the presentation was complete with the limes, onions, corn tortillas and several salsas for us to taste. It was simply delicious. And as promised, the meat was so juicy and tender that it seemed to melt in our mouths.

Overall, our experience at la Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas was fantastic. The service was great, the food was without match and our meals were very affordable. But I have to say that my favorite part of all was being able to dine out as the local residents do — and with the local residents.

So, if you ever travel to Guadalajara, don’t miss out on the birria! Be sure to grab lunch or dinner at la Birrieria Las 9 Esquinas. Your stomach will thank you.


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